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The Beginner's Guide to the Scrollsaw
A Concise Informational Handbook

This guide is a brief version of all that is scrollsawyer territory.  Much of what you will read below is compliments of Nick Engler, a master woodworker.  Go to any search engine and search on Nick's name to find all sorts of his goodies.

A Bit of History

The evolution of the scrollsaw is linked to the rise in popularity of frework (the sawing of intricate shapes from wood).  Although there are examples of fretwork-like decorations on early Egyptian, Greek, and Roman furniture, these were probably carved or cut with a knife.  It wasn't possible to saw delicate wooden shapes until the late 1500's, when a German craftsman (possibly a clock maker) devised a method for making fine, narrow blades.

Soon thereafter, a Parisian began to develop specialized hand tools for cutting these intricate designs.  He designed a U-shaped fret saw, originally known as a Buhl-saw (Buhl a corrupted pronunciation of the man's name).  As Mr. Boulle's work gained notoriety, the craft was legitimized and quickly spread to Italy within a generation.

Fretwork was introduced to America in the mid-1800's as Sorrento wood carving, so named because of the area in Italy that it was most popular.  By the 1860's, the first mechanical fret saws - called scroll saws - began to appear in the U.S.  And so a great art form and hobby were born.  Today there are over fifty models of scrollsaws available with many options.

Safety First

As far as power woodworking tools go, the scrollsaw is among the safest of machinery - BUT, do not be fooled - ALL power tools can be dangerous.

You'll want your safety goggles as usual and good ventilation (c'mon, a mask would be great, too).  Keep your fingers clear of the blade and mind the reciprocating arm of the scrollsaw - it can easily break a finger or worse.

Most saws nowadays are equipped with a spring in the arm so that when a blade breaks, the broken top-half does not come shooting down into the project or your hand.  Regardless, it might be nice to know whether your saw will react this way or not.

Use the workpiece guard to hold down your project snugly, while still allowing it to move freely.

The scrollsaw is a great tool for starting out a young woodworking student.  It is a slow cutting machine, so there's less "quick-thinking" to do.  If you ever get stuck, just shut the power off and think it over.  Most of all, remain alert while working - good lighting is still the best way to do so!

Choosing a Scrollsaw

There are many features to consider when choosing a scrollsaw.  Here we will cover a few of the more important ones.

Blade Suspension - You want to be able to change the blades quickly and easily, without having to worry about them slipping.  Quick-release blade clamps and a forward-mounted tension adjustment mechanism makes it much easier to change the blade and to thread it through the stock making inside cuts.  Removeable blade clamps are very handy.  (Ask local suppliers.)

Consider what type of blades the saw uses.  There are two types of blades:
Plain-End blades and Pin-End blades.  Both have advantages and drawbacks.

Plain-End blades are what you would imagine when you think of a blade.  They are pinched in place between the jaws of clamps.  These blades are more widely available and are considered the standard for most long-time woodworkers.  Many different types are available and always will be.

Pin-End blades have a tiny cross pin in each end.  These pins rest in a holder or hook on the saw.  They are much easier and quicker to change.  The bad aspect is that there is less of a selection and they cannot be threaded through very small holes required by some projects.

Never buy a tool without seeing it run first.  A well-balanced tool will not vibrate very much, if at all.  Your scrollsaw should run smoothly and quietly, the blade should appear as a thin black line as it goes up and down - if it is blurred, something is misaligned (maybe easy to fix...maybe not).

Variable speed or not?  Some will swear that you must have variable speed control on any worthy scrollsaw.  This sentiment is right and wrong.  Some projects will require a slower cutting speed than others.

A high speed (1,200 - 1,800 strokes per minute) may be needed to cut a very hard wood or get a fine cut.  A low speed (400 - 800spm) may be used to cut a softer wood.  A variable speed will allow any speed in between.

Some saws have one speed, others have two, and still others are as we've described: variable.  It is our opinion that a two speed scrollsaw - slow and fast - is the best choice for most scrollsawyers.  Most importantly, the off position should be situated at either the high or low end; that is, it shouldn't be in the middle. . .as this makes it hard to shut off the machine quickly in the case of an emergency.  Ideally, a separate cut off switch works best.

Stand-alone or Table-mounted?  Both usually have the same throat capacity (the length between the back of the reciprocating mount and the saw blade - how far back can you push the wood you are cutting before it hits the back of the saw and stops. . .normally from 12 - 20".)

The advantage of stand-alone models is their dampening effect.  Vibration is usually greatly reduced due to the design of the stand.  Table-mounted saws may vibrate more, depending on what they are mounted on.

Accessories

Blade releases / quick clamps - In the past, most scrollsaws required a hex key or special wrench to operate the blade clamps.  Today, more and more toolmakers are offering models with blade clampls that you can release or tighten with your fingers.  If your saw isn't fitted with these, you may be able to update it as many aftermarket parts are available.

Blowers - These devices are simply air hoses that attach near where the blade contacts the wood stock.  It blows away the sawdust that will build up on your cutting surface.  These are not necessary, but your lungs will get quite a workout if you don't have one - it's very handy.

A makeshift blower can be made out of an aquarium air pump which can be obtained at garage sales or a local pet store relatively cheaply.  Put a soft metal (copper) tube at the end of the hose (where it will blow from) and crimp the end in order to increase the velocity of the airflow exiting.

Magnifiers/Lights - A magnifier and lamp are often combined. . .both are very useful.  This accessory magnifies the pattern lines making them easier to follow and cut.  Head-mounted units are also available.

Foot-activated Power Switches - These devices, as their name so aptly describes, sit on the floor and allow the operator to shut the machine down by simply tapping the toe.  Tap it again to start back up.  Neat!

Choosing Blades

We've already discussed the two blade types, Pin-end and Plain-end.  Now let's talk about which kind of blade to use for specific projects.

T.P.I. (teeth per inch) - Depending on what you're cutting, the optimum TPI will vary.  A general rule is, the fewer the TPI, the rougher the cut is going to be - the more teeth, the finer the cut.

Blades have numbers:  1's, 5's, 7's, etc..  The higher the number, the lower the TPI. . .so keep this in mind.

Generally speaking, number 7 blades and on up are used for cutting thicker and harder woods (1" - 2") as these blades are more durable.  7's and on down (5's, etc.) are used for woods from 1/16" up to 1", or softer woods.

Lower universal number blades (5's, etc.) are used for fine, intricate cuts; they also dull much faster and break much sooner than higher numbers.

Standard Blades - Standard blades have teeth in one direction and are the most commonly used blade.  Depending on the wood, saw, and user, these blades generally give a smooth cut requiring a little sanding.

Reverse-Teeth Blades - Reverse-teeth blades have a few blades going in the opposite direction from the others right at the bottom of the blade, so when it slashed back up through the wood a smoother cut is made.  These blades will cause you a little less sanding time.

Spiral Blades - These blades have teeth all around a cylinder-like blade and can cut in any direction.  They sound great, but problems are often reported such as:  breaking, difficulty in controlling cut, dulling quickly.

Regardless of which blades you choose, you should make the decision as to which are the best for yourself.  You don't need a huge supply of blades to make nice projects.  If you're just starting off, buy a dozen of No. 5's, maybe some No. 9's, perhaps a dozen No. 12's and a few No. 3's.  This selection should be plenty to do any job a beginner or intermediate scroll- sawyer would attempt.  (At this time, we must recommend the Flying Dutchman Reverse-tooth Sandless Blades - they're really fine blades!)

We haven't covered all types or varieties of blades here - but this is a very good "starter's" guide to blades.  Just dive in and start learning!

Technique Tips

Just a few tips to keep in mind.  Like we say, jump in and learn!

• Adjust the hold-down so it applies enough pressure to keep the wood on the table, but not so much that you can't feed the stock through.
• Before cutting, turn on the saw and make sure the upper arm isn't hitting anything.  Make a test cut to see that it cuts properly.
• When working with hardwood or thick pieces, set the saw at a higher speed.  When working with thin or softwood, use a slower speed.
• The feed rate is VERY important.  DO NOT push the wood through too fast.  Work slowly with a gentle pressure.  If your blade is bowing under the pressure, you're moving too fast.  Be mindful of this.
• For cutting straight lines, you can clamp a guide fence onto your saw's table and feed your stock by it.  This works great!

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